I started my trip at Kotor Bus Station and boarded a bus to Herceg Novi. The fare cost six euros. The one-hour ride followed the scenic edge of Kotor Bay, skipping the ferry shortcut. The road hugged the coastline tightly. Along the way, I spotted stone churches, fishing boats, sleepy villages, and lush hills dropping into the sea.
I asked the driver to stop near the roundabout beside the IDEA Supermarket. From there, I walked toward Savina Monastery. The shaded road felt peaceful, lined with pine trees and villas with flowering gardens. It was a calm and lovely entrance into the slower rhythm of Herceg Novi.
Savina Monastery
Savina Monastery sits on a gentle slope just above the bay. Its grounds were quiet, almost empty, adding a sense of stillness. I didn’t go far inside, unsure if unguided visitors were welcome. I stayed at the gate of the Church of the Most Holy Mother of God, admiring its modest yet elegant design and snapping a few photos.
A Stroll Along Pet Danica Walkway
From the monastery, I followed a side road downhill and reached the Pet Danica Walkway in a few minutes. This long, paved promenade stretches along the Herceg Novi coast and is ideal for joggers and morning walkers. The path is wide and clean, broken occasionally by cafés and small docks. To my left, the sea sparkled, while to my right, the town gradually revealed more of its charm.
Exploring the Forts and Coastal Views
Eventually, I reached Fort Citadela, nestled into a rocky outcrop above the water. Though mostly in ruins, the remaining walls offered postcard views of the Adriatic. Faded information boards shared glimpses of the fort’s history. A bit further stood Fort Mare, another small fortress perched above the bay. I paused by the statue of King Stefan Tvrtko I Kotromanić near the “I ❤️ Herceg Novi” sign. Shaded benches surrounded the square, making it a restful and scenic stop.
Locals led me to a nearby staircase heading up to the viewpoint at Fort Mare. The climb was short, but the view was incredible. Red rooftops, blue waters, and distant green mountains all fit neatly into the frame. Only a handful of other visitors stood there, enjoying the peace.
St. Jeronim Square and Belavista Square
More stairs brought me into St. Jeronim Square, a quiet space surrounded by colorful, weathered buildings. I passed by St. Jerome’s Church and the Muzicka Skola, both simple but significant landmarks in Herceg Novi’s history. I continued down Marka Cara Street, which led me into Belavista Square—the heart of Herceg Novi’s Old Town.
The square felt distinctly Mediterranean, lined with stone buildings, leafy vines, and open-air cafés. In the center stood the Church of St. Michael Archangel. Its Byzantine-style dome gave the square an Eastern atmosphere, setting it apart from the Catholic towns around the bay.
Lunch at Belavista Bistro
I decided to have lunch at Belavista Bistro, a spot right on the edge of the square. Their squid ink risotto caught my eye. The dish arrived rich in color and flavor, served with a slice of lemon. The blackened rice was photogenic and deeply savory. I lingered at my table, watching tourists pass in and out of the square.
Kanli Kula Fortress
After lunch, I climbed the stairs to Kanli Kula Fortress, a massive stone structure built by the Ottomans in the 16th century. Its name means “Bloody Tower,” referencing its later use as a prison. Today, it serves as an open-air amphitheater, with crumbling walls and bleachers overlooking the sea. As I wandered, a light rain began to fall. I took shelter in a small covered room where a short video looped, detailing Herceg Novi’s history from Byzantine roots to Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian rule. When the rain stopped, I stepped outside for one last look at the bay from the fortress walls.
From Kanli Kula, I made my way to the Herceg Novi Bus Station. It sits on a hilltop—not particularly scenic, but easy to navigate. As I waited for the return bus to Kotor, I passed the time by watching a livestream of the Philippine Women’s National Volleyball Team.
Herceg Novi feels more lived-in and less curated than towns like Perast or Kotor. Its charm lies in walking, wandering, and stumbling upon hidden squares, forgotten forts, and stories layered through time. If I had more time, I would stay longer and use Herceg Novi as my base to explore the quieter side of the bay.
